Barkhamsted: Complete!

Barkhamsted: Complete!
Royal Coachman Tavern at the Old Riverton Inn

Here is the CTMQ Guide to Barkhamsted with my list and stories about everything I’ve done there!

After a decade of writing CTMQ, I decided to try to “complete” towns. In that decade of traveling and writing, I had already done a lot of stuff in many of our towns already. However, I have been continually surprised by how much more there often is to do. This page includes my “town completion celebration meal” and recap of my Barkhamsted experiences.

Let’s get to it.

Barkhamsted was my: 36th town completed
First CTMQ Page: Peoples State Forest Nature Museum, 2007

The Celebration

I think a lot of people think that there’s nowhere to enjoy a celebratory meal in Barkhamsted. Actually, I think no one thinks about celebratory meals in Barkhamsted… at least for the reason that I’m celebrating in Barkhamsted. It’s fun to be unique, I suppose. Oh, sure, plenty of people have hiked every trail in town, but have they done everything else on the CTMQ list?

Anyway, there’s a stretch of Route 44 though the southwestern section of town that contains a couple restaurants. Venerable places like the Log House Restaurant and the Brass Horse Cafe. But when it came time for me to decide, I went with the Royal Coachman Tavern at the Old Riverton Inn, and didn’t second guess myself for a second.

It’s historic. It’s nice. The view out of the front door is a million times prettier than Route 44. And, just as importantly, it has menu items named after local places and people! Plus local craft beer and ice cream!

The Old Riverton Inn has stood the test of time, serving as a landmark in the town for more than 220 years. Over the centuries, it has been The Riverton Inn, Yale’s Hotel, Riverton Hotel, Old Ives Hotel, and Ives Tavern. I cannot vouch for this place for all of those 220 years, but can report that it’s very nice in 2024. It was bought by a couple in 2019, refurbished and renovated – while certainly keeping its historic charm, overlooking the west branch of the Farmington River.

It was originally Ives Tavern, and as best as anyone can tell, it was owned by one Mr. Jesse Ives. Why here?

The community of Riverton in the Town of Barkhamsted was settled in the late 18th century by farmers, one of whom was John Ives. The bridge across the east branch of the Farmington River, built in 1790, was the only bridge over the river north of New Hartford and south of the Massachusetts line and had connections to Winsted and Colebrook. Since the bridge caused a density of traffic, it was a logical location for a tavern. John Ives’s grandson Jesse grasped the opportunity.

At that time Riverton had begun to assume an industrial character because of its abundant waterpower, provided by the Farmington river. There were gristmills and sawmills, then an iron forge, a paper mill, calico manufacturer, coffee grinder, rule manufacturer, and a maker of scythes. The most famous of the manufactories, of course, was the chair factory started by Lambert Hitchcock in 1818, at times assisted financially by Jesse Ives.

The Inn was a success out of the gate and expanded over the years. They say it has hosted Harper Lee, David Halberstam, Dan Rather, Tom Brokaw… and Andre the Giant(!)

And Steve Wood of CTMQ fame. (Well, I didn’t stay at the Inn. But I ate in the tavern.)

The Royal Coachman Tavern is a new tavern in the old building. The Tavern is named after the Royal Coachman fly. (Fly fishing is huge in this area.) Oh you want to know more? Fine. The Royal Coachman is an artificial fly that has been tied as a wet fly, dry fly and streamer pattern. Today, the Royal Coachman and its variations are tied mostly as dry flies and fished floating on the water surface. It is a popular and widely used pattern for freshwater game fish, particularly trout and grayling. Large streamer versions are also used for winter steelhead and Atlantic salmon.

I know I’m going way into the weeds here, but I love Barkhamsted and its Riverton section in particular. Indulge me… I only get to celebrate Barkhamsted this once.

The previous owners let the restaurant part of the Inn wither away and were running it as a Bed & Breakfast, neglecting much of the potential. The new owners revived the full hotel experience, spruced up the formal dining room, and created the homey tavern.

The bar was packed when I visited; it appeared to be mostly locals. I took a table in the informal dining room and noted the huge fireplace rickety wooden tables. There’s definitely an ambiance here.

I ordered a local beer (celebrating, remember) from… I forget. Brewery Legitimus I believe and a… Jesse Ives Bacon Burger. They also serve a Riverton Pizza here which has four cheeses, garlic, and basil, but c’mon. Jesse Ives built this place! He’s a Barkhamsted OG!

This half-pound monster was one of the best burgers I’ve ever had in my life. No joke. Not only that, the fries were perfect. (I could’t eat all my fries, but they were so good I actually took them home, something I never do.)

The burger was cooked to perfection and juicy as could be. I was very hungry, which may be skewing my impression, but I don’t think so. I don’t really have anything else to say, and even if I did, I took up too much real estate on this page already, yapping about the history of the area.

Go here. Eat here. Heck, stay here for a Staycation. This is a beautiful area of the state and if that dang burger is any indication of everything else on the menu, you’ll be very happy with your visit.

Royal Coachman Tavern at The Old Riverton Inn

Barkhamsted Wrap-Up

Lots of Connecticut towns are mostly rural and/or wooded. But Barkhamsted seems to celebrate its rugged character more than others do. There are fly-fishing tours and stores. Bicycling tours and stores. A motorcycle bar. A giant recreational lake. People come here to be outside, and the town knows that and celebrates it.

I guess that’s why I’ve always liked Barkhamsted so much; all the way back to that very first time I drove up alongside the Farmington River’s East Branch and saw my first Connecticut black bear. I loved the Tunxis Trail section high above the Reservoir, and loved my tour inside the dam and onto the off-limits reservoir land.

The historical Society here is active and energetic; their museums at Squire’s Tavern and an old school house are well above the norm for such things. Hell, the post offices and little league field are quaint. I’m telling you, even if you have no desire to be active here, or simply can’t, Just drive along the river and across the dam in mid-October and I promise you, if that’s all you ever do in Barkhamsted, you’ll come away a fan.

Thought exercise: If I had to send someone to Barkhamsted for a daytrip, I would tell them to drive across Saville Dam and park. Get your bike off your car and ride in any direction, Around the reservoir or up and down the Farmington River. Stop and hike at Peoples State Forest. Camp overnight at American Legion State Forest. Pop in at Squire’s Tavern. Go fly-fishing. Eat at the Tavern above. Get the full Barkhamsted.

Surprise: Being treated like a minor celebrity by the wonderful Historical Society folks
Favorite fact: The town’s Constitution Oak still stands in Barkhamsted Center which is mostly underneath the reservoir
Disappointment: The sad fate of the Pleasant Valley Drive-In

Barkhamsted: Done!

Previous completed town: Rocky Hill!
Next completed town: Simsbury!